I am just passing though Limoges and because I was stuck in Guéret for three days progress has been very slow. However I hope to be in Périgueux by tomorrow and then I will take a train back to the Loire Valley and away from these hills. However I am enjoying the riding.
Bon Journéé
Friday, June 11, 2010
Monday, June 7, 2010
Les Irlandais a seulement un oeil!
Vraiment, c'est vrai!
Well perhaps a bit of an exaggeration. However this was my experience in staying two nights at the Nevers camping ground. In both cases it was the right eye that was dodgy.
The first guy was very friendly and we chatted for a long time about this and that. He was surprised that I could recognise his accent as he was from the north. However a around 30 he may not have known that in the late 60s we were feed a daily dose of the Rev Ian Paisley and Bernadette Devlin. He was heading south with his partner on a moterbike and seemed very organised.
The second guy was a more problematic character. He had a bike of sorts but had taken the train to Nevers. We talked although the conversation was limited. I asked him where he was going and was it for holiday. His reponse was "me father died two years ago". Knowing something of Irish society I understand the importance of fathers and how this might set one wandering. He then asked me which way was south. I referenced my answer to the setting sun and hope it would help. The next morning we met again and he asked where he could get some soup and for a bike shop that could repair his brakes. He also asked where south was. I gave some suggestions for the soup and the bike repair and referenced my answer on direction to the rising sun.
A Dutch pilgrim (Never is on the pilgrim path to Spain)who had also talked to him what would become of him. During his last trip south he had had his drink spiked in Rome and lost everything. We had no answer.
I left Nevers in what I thought was a westerly direction and thinking whether I should have shared my soap with the boy (maybe mid 30s)from just south of Dublin. However, the Dutch pilgrim hadn't either so I stopped feeling so bad.
Well perhaps a bit of an exaggeration. However this was my experience in staying two nights at the Nevers camping ground. In both cases it was the right eye that was dodgy.
The first guy was very friendly and we chatted for a long time about this and that. He was surprised that I could recognise his accent as he was from the north. However a around 30 he may not have known that in the late 60s we were feed a daily dose of the Rev Ian Paisley and Bernadette Devlin. He was heading south with his partner on a moterbike and seemed very organised.
The second guy was a more problematic character. He had a bike of sorts but had taken the train to Nevers. We talked although the conversation was limited. I asked him where he was going and was it for holiday. His reponse was "me father died two years ago". Knowing something of Irish society I understand the importance of fathers and how this might set one wandering. He then asked me which way was south. I referenced my answer to the setting sun and hope it would help. The next morning we met again and he asked where he could get some soup and for a bike shop that could repair his brakes. He also asked where south was. I gave some suggestions for the soup and the bike repair and referenced my answer on direction to the rising sun.
A Dutch pilgrim (Never is on the pilgrim path to Spain)who had also talked to him what would become of him. During his last trip south he had had his drink spiked in Rome and lost everything. We had no answer.
I left Nevers in what I thought was a westerly direction and thinking whether I should have shared my soap with the boy (maybe mid 30s)from just south of Dublin. However, the Dutch pilgrim hadn't either so I stopped feeling so bad.
Logement en France
From the grand apartments of the smerter arrondissements of Paris to decaying farm houses there is for some an exotic and romantic allure. However there is also a lot in common with what we know.
Firstly, there is¨Paris. Paris is expensive to rent or buy and out of the reach of many. Yet there a many unoccupied homes. The situation is similar in larger regional cities with house prices rising significantly over the last few years. The newspaper headline today says there is a shortfall of 900,000 homes.
Some of the regional cities are now, courtesy of the TGV within commuting distance of Paris. For example, Nancy? which is 300 km from Paris is now only 90 minutes away by TGV. A regional city is a much better place to live than the Paris banluie (suburbs skirting the city).
In the more rural areas, villages are dying and there are plenty of derelict farm houses. In one village I came through there is a plaque celebrating a two week stay by Jeanne D'Arc in 1414. It looks like nothing more exciting has happened there since. Paradodoxically on the edges of some villages there is something of building boom happening. There a little villas with land around going up close to larger towns and cities.
France's population is now growing rapidly due to both natural growth and immigration. Where the Maillets live (Heillecourt) is housing development in response to the babyboomer growth period of the 60s and 70s. These are good developments with a good mix of housing type and excellent social facilities. I am not so sure the current reponse to growth is as effective. Perhaps Denis can provide an authoritive comment as this is something that interests all of us.
Firstly, there is¨Paris. Paris is expensive to rent or buy and out of the reach of many. Yet there a many unoccupied homes. The situation is similar in larger regional cities with house prices rising significantly over the last few years. The newspaper headline today says there is a shortfall of 900,000 homes.
Some of the regional cities are now, courtesy of the TGV within commuting distance of Paris. For example, Nancy? which is 300 km from Paris is now only 90 minutes away by TGV. A regional city is a much better place to live than the Paris banluie (suburbs skirting the city).
In the more rural areas, villages are dying and there are plenty of derelict farm houses. In one village I came through there is a plaque celebrating a two week stay by Jeanne D'Arc in 1414. It looks like nothing more exciting has happened there since. Paradodoxically on the edges of some villages there is something of building boom happening. There a little villas with land around going up close to larger towns and cities.
France's population is now growing rapidly due to both natural growth and immigration. Where the Maillets live (Heillecourt) is housing development in response to the babyboomer growth period of the 60s and 70s. These are good developments with a good mix of housing type and excellent social facilities. I am not so sure the current reponse to growth is as effective. Perhaps Denis can provide an authoritive comment as this is something that interests all of us.
J'arrive a Guéret
Actually this is not strictly true. I am 10 km short of Guéret and stopped for a coffee and then because I have ridden well, a beer too. I noticed the bar had an internet site so I take this opportunity to do some postings
It is after noon so respectible for an Anglo-Celt to commence drinking although I have noticed some of the French start a little earlier.
The terrain is hiller now and I am seeing lots of white Limosin cows. This is strange given I am in Limosin! I have left the dreaded wheat, barley and canola. The paddocks a more petite in both the French and English meanings.
Heading for Perigeaux so expect something after these three posting in about two days.
Glad to know the Auditors report is about to hit the desk. The only other work thing I wonder about is whether Bill has worked out the difference between income and expenditure. Right now I am trying but France is quite expensive.
It is after noon so respectible for an Anglo-Celt to commence drinking although I have noticed some of the French start a little earlier.
The terrain is hiller now and I am seeing lots of white Limosin cows. This is strange given I am in Limosin! I have left the dreaded wheat, barley and canola. The paddocks a more petite in both the French and English meanings.
Heading for Perigeaux so expect something after these three posting in about two days.
Glad to know the Auditors report is about to hit the desk. The only other work thing I wonder about is whether Bill has worked out the difference between income and expenditure. Right now I am trying but France is quite expensive.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
La Voyage me fatigue plus
There are times when you wonder why you bother to travel and then it is explained!
After the disappointment of the mountains (sounds like Phil of the SBS Tour de France commentary) I was dtermined to get kilometers under me. From Nevers I rode to Bourges and stayed one night. Bourges is nice enough with yet another magnificent 11th Century cathedral but I had trouble finding a meal but did get a good one in the end.
At 7 am the next morning I set out with a heavy heart to ride across yet more rolling hils of wheat, barly and canola but no people. I stopped briefly at Chateauneuf, a hole of a place with yet another cathedral (another story). I took a coffee at a bar and they reluctantly refilled my water bottle.
In even lower spirits in increasing heat I set off on a "sprint" across more plains of wheat, barley and canola (could be in a green Wimmera). I arrived at Ligniéres yet one mere liveless French small town at around 11.00. I was about to continue on to my ultimate destination of Le Chatre when something made me have a wander leaving my bike against a wall.
I found a small square with a large covered area rather like a farm shed with massive colums and beams. On part of this area was a motley collection of tables and chairs, none set but with what most interested me, a menu board. "Si vous plait, je voudrais manger?" With an affirmative? I settled down to a simple but very nice omelette and salad with a Pichet of cider. It doesn't take much to revive a boys spirits and for me, this was it!
As I take my coffee and look at the building opposite with pink shutters, I am mentally ready for more wheat, barley and canola. The Force is returning! As I leave the French are arriving to take thier Saturday lunch to a more normal routine.
After the disappointment of the mountains (sounds like Phil of the SBS Tour de France commentary) I was dtermined to get kilometers under me. From Nevers I rode to Bourges and stayed one night. Bourges is nice enough with yet another magnificent 11th Century cathedral but I had trouble finding a meal but did get a good one in the end.
At 7 am the next morning I set out with a heavy heart to ride across yet more rolling hils of wheat, barly and canola but no people. I stopped briefly at Chateauneuf, a hole of a place with yet another cathedral (another story). I took a coffee at a bar and they reluctantly refilled my water bottle.
In even lower spirits in increasing heat I set off on a "sprint" across more plains of wheat, barley and canola (could be in a green Wimmera). I arrived at Ligniéres yet one mere liveless French small town at around 11.00. I was about to continue on to my ultimate destination of Le Chatre when something made me have a wander leaving my bike against a wall.
I found a small square with a large covered area rather like a farm shed with massive colums and beams. On part of this area was a motley collection of tables and chairs, none set but with what most interested me, a menu board. "Si vous plait, je voudrais manger?" With an affirmative? I settled down to a simple but very nice omelette and salad with a Pichet of cider. It doesn't take much to revive a boys spirits and for me, this was it!
As I take my coffee and look at the building opposite with pink shutters, I am mentally ready for more wheat, barley and canola. The Force is returning! As I leave the French are arriving to take thier Saturday lunch to a more normal routine.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Je suis arrivée a Moulins
I rode up here this morning arriving at 12.00 noon. The 80 km was an easy ride. However with rain and conscious of not pushing too hard I decided to stay in a Hotel tonight.
Also, looking for the first time in detail at the maps I am not sure I have bitten off more than I can chew in terms of crossing the higher part of the Massif Central. I am taking the train from here up to Clermont-Ferrand and will see from there what is reasonable.
Also, looking for the first time in detail at the maps I am not sure I have bitten off more than I can chew in terms of crossing the higher part of the Massif Central. I am taking the train from here up to Clermont-Ferrand and will see from there what is reasonable.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Les Français
Some English speakers like to malign the French. This probably done to mask their own insecurities.
I find the French to be a very warm people. I am mindful of their efforts at greeting. It is always personal,direct and with meaning -"bonjour" and "ca va" and farewell is "bon journée and "au revoir". Then there is the double cheek kiss. At first like most English speakers I had a bit of trouble with but now I am right into it. This is because I see it for what it is - a sign of acceptance and friendship. It is really an honour.
The French are now very diverse. Sarah is the daughter of a Northern French father and a Madagascar born mother of Indian (Ismaeli) origin. The wedding that followed ours at City Hall was Berber from the High Atlas Mountains - lots of drums and wailing.
Whoever Les Fraiçais are they are adsorbing the warm Latin feelings of this culture.
I find the French to be a very warm people. I am mindful of their efforts at greeting. It is always personal,direct and with meaning -"bonjour" and "ca va" and farewell is "bon journée and "au revoir". Then there is the double cheek kiss. At first like most English speakers I had a bit of trouble with but now I am right into it. This is because I see it for what it is - a sign of acceptance and friendship. It is really an honour.
The French are now very diverse. Sarah is the daughter of a Northern French father and a Madagascar born mother of Indian (Ismaeli) origin. The wedding that followed ours at City Hall was Berber from the High Atlas Mountains - lots of drums and wailing.
Whoever Les Fraiçais are they are adsorbing the warm Latin feelings of this culture.
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