Monday, April 6, 2015
This is the third of my journeys through Europe that have given me heart over the last eight years, commencing in 2008. It is two nights before I set off for my journey to the other side of the world. The suitcase is half filled and I keep thinking of all the last minute "actions" I need to do before I can relax on the plane and watch my feet gradually blow up. For the first time I am not going to ride a bike but I hope I can post some interesting observations. Writing is everything isn't it? Well it is if it isn't crap.
The trip is multi-purpose. It is to continue my understanding of French and hopefully to become more conversational.
A plus tard, c'est aimer que Lyon, Auvergne et Berlin ont pour des voyageurs. Aussi, je rencontrerai Sophie. J'espere que elle a bon sante et nous aurons beaucoup amusement. On verra!
Sunday, June 20, 2010
La Fin
The trip is over and today is a work day. While the residual jet lag remains I will do a simple documentation of the cycling route. The distance ridden includes within cities and towns.
1 June, Tuesday - Nancy to Nevers by train and camped
2 June, Wednesday - Nevers to Moulins by bike (100km) and stayed at a hotel
3 June, Thursday - Moulins to Clermont-Ferrand and then to Nevers by train to a hotel
4 June, Friday - Nevers to Bourges by bike (81km) and camped
5 June, Saturday - Bourges to Le Chatre by bike (95km)and camped for two nights
6 June, Sunday - Le Chatre
7 June, Monday - Le Chatre to Gueret by bike (96km)and camped for three nights
8 June, Tuesday - Gueret (rain)
9 June, Wednesday - Gueret (rain)
10 June, Thursday - Gueret to Ambrazac by bike (70km) to hotel (rain commenced at midday)
11 June, Friday - Ambrazac to St Yrieix by bike (70km) to camp (very difficult ride)
12 June, Saturday - St Yriex to Perigueux by bike (70km) to camp
13 June, Sunday - Perigueux to Poitiers by train to hotel
14 June, Monday - Poitiers to Loches by bike (95km) to camp
15 June, Tuesday - Loches to Contres by bike (60km) to Chambre d'hote.
16 June, Wednesday - Contres to Chambord to Blois by bike (50km)
16 June, Wednesday - Blois to Paris by train and bike (10km) to hotel
17 June, Thursday - Paris
18/19/20 June, Fri/Sat/Sun - Paris to Melbourne
Total distance ridden by bike - 727km
Flat tyres - none
Other damage - brakes in fall on train from Blois to Paris
1 June, Tuesday - Nancy to Nevers by train and camped
2 June, Wednesday - Nevers to Moulins by bike (100km) and stayed at a hotel
3 June, Thursday - Moulins to Clermont-Ferrand and then to Nevers by train to a hotel
4 June, Friday - Nevers to Bourges by bike (81km) and camped
5 June, Saturday - Bourges to Le Chatre by bike (95km)and camped for two nights
6 June, Sunday - Le Chatre
7 June, Monday - Le Chatre to Gueret by bike (96km)and camped for three nights
8 June, Tuesday - Gueret (rain)
9 June, Wednesday - Gueret (rain)
10 June, Thursday - Gueret to Ambrazac by bike (70km) to hotel (rain commenced at midday)
11 June, Friday - Ambrazac to St Yrieix by bike (70km) to camp (very difficult ride)
12 June, Saturday - St Yriex to Perigueux by bike (70km) to camp
13 June, Sunday - Perigueux to Poitiers by train to hotel
14 June, Monday - Poitiers to Loches by bike (95km) to camp
15 June, Tuesday - Loches to Contres by bike (60km) to Chambre d'hote.
16 June, Wednesday - Contres to Chambord to Blois by bike (50km)
16 June, Wednesday - Blois to Paris by train and bike (10km) to hotel
17 June, Thursday - Paris
18/19/20 June, Fri/Sat/Sun - Paris to Melbourne
Total distance ridden by bike - 727km
Flat tyres - none
Other damage - brakes in fall on train from Blois to Paris
Dave, le anglais qui voudrait oublier
I met Dave at the Gueret camping ground. The manager had let both of us know of the presence of another English speaking cyclist. I went over to his site and started to chat. Soon I knew the basics of his story as he mine. Dave was around 40 and came from about 100 km north of London, he had been in France cycling since January this year, he had "issues" at home and he loved listening to the cricket.
I was most impressed with the fact that he cycled through the winter. This year had been a particularly severe winter in France. Dave was a strong believer in fate and told me a story about escaping a major Atlantic storm that had killed about 50 people. This, he attributed to a chance encounter and warning from another Englishman. He was an advocate of "wild camping" and this is what he mainly did so even being in a municipal camp site was a rarity. He had another story about being caught in the Alps with snow falling and a bicycle that was unsafe to ride. Here he was saved by two samaritans in a van.
We got on well for a while and discussed sport and politics quite easily. But reasonably quickly we lost interest in each other. A common language and interest in sport weren't enough to sustain the relationship. We shared a meal cooked (really more warmed) on his little stove. Even here, my choice of cheese was a point of difference. Dave had very simple food tastes.
It probably wasn't helped by my suggestion that he go back to England to deal with his issues. These issues are not for detailing here but, as can be expected, related to both home and work. Dave seemed a gentle soul and it was clear he wasn't ready for whatever confrontations were related to returning. Dave would rather sit out the rain in his tent listening to the cricket on the radio.
After two days of solid rain, I finally got away from Gueret early on the third day. Dave was still in his tent listening to the radio when I left. He poked his head out of the tent and we shook hands wishing each other all the best.
I was most impressed with the fact that he cycled through the winter. This year had been a particularly severe winter in France. Dave was a strong believer in fate and told me a story about escaping a major Atlantic storm that had killed about 50 people. This, he attributed to a chance encounter and warning from another Englishman. He was an advocate of "wild camping" and this is what he mainly did so even being in a municipal camp site was a rarity. He had another story about being caught in the Alps with snow falling and a bicycle that was unsafe to ride. Here he was saved by two samaritans in a van.
We got on well for a while and discussed sport and politics quite easily. But reasonably quickly we lost interest in each other. A common language and interest in sport weren't enough to sustain the relationship. We shared a meal cooked (really more warmed) on his little stove. Even here, my choice of cheese was a point of difference. Dave had very simple food tastes.
It probably wasn't helped by my suggestion that he go back to England to deal with his issues. These issues are not for detailing here but, as can be expected, related to both home and work. Dave seemed a gentle soul and it was clear he wasn't ready for whatever confrontations were related to returning. Dave would rather sit out the rain in his tent listening to the cricket on the radio.
After two days of solid rain, I finally got away from Gueret early on the third day. Dave was still in his tent listening to the radio when I left. He poked his head out of the tent and we shook hands wishing each other all the best.
Friday, June 18, 2010
La cuisine en France
It seems obligatory to write about the food in France. I had some lovely food but I also had so not so great food. Interestingly this variation is not always price related.
This was not a foodie holiday so the best food I had was to a degree accidental. It also wasn't made easier by the fatigue driven lack of appetite.
Stopped by rain at a small town called Ambazac, just north of Limoges, I checked into the only hotel. That night for dinner I had the most fantastic lamb shanks. I mention this because lamb shanks with white sauce was a favourite of my Dad. However these lamb shanks were not the same over cooked version and I have never been fan of white sauce. Sorry Mum! Now my enthusiasm for lamb shanks is renewed.
Another time, after riding through driving rain for 16 km from La Roche-Posay (a very touristy town) to a village called Preuilly, I had a fantastic "pub" three course lunch again with lamb as the main course. I think this meal sustained me for the rest of the 95 km I rode that day to reach Loches.
In most larger tourist towns and cities, there are plenty of "formule" restaurants offering prepared food. In my limited experience, in these towns your need to pay at least 50€ for a really good meal. In contrast, in smaller towns, you can get great food prepared for you for between 10€ and 20€, especially for lunch. Dinner is usually more expensive.
As for haut cuisine, I am not the person to ask. Sorry, not much to say on this score.
This was not a foodie holiday so the best food I had was to a degree accidental. It also wasn't made easier by the fatigue driven lack of appetite.
Stopped by rain at a small town called Ambazac, just north of Limoges, I checked into the only hotel. That night for dinner I had the most fantastic lamb shanks. I mention this because lamb shanks with white sauce was a favourite of my Dad. However these lamb shanks were not the same over cooked version and I have never been fan of white sauce. Sorry Mum! Now my enthusiasm for lamb shanks is renewed.
Another time, after riding through driving rain for 16 km from La Roche-Posay (a very touristy town) to a village called Preuilly, I had a fantastic "pub" three course lunch again with lamb as the main course. I think this meal sustained me for the rest of the 95 km I rode that day to reach Loches.
In most larger tourist towns and cities, there are plenty of "formule" restaurants offering prepared food. In my limited experience, in these towns your need to pay at least 50€ for a really good meal. In contrast, in smaller towns, you can get great food prepared for you for between 10€ and 20€, especially for lunch. Dinner is usually more expensive.
As for haut cuisine, I am not the person to ask. Sorry, not much to say on this score.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
La Voyage par velo est fin et les Bleues est battu!
Yesterday I packed the bike and the French team were well beaten by Mexico. I share with the French people a sense of relief that it has all ended.
I have been reflecting on the bike trip with mixed feelings. Riding across hilly Limousin and Dordogne and the still hilly Loire Valley in not great weather took its toll. But already after one day relaxing in Paris I feel a lot more positive.
However, overall, whilst a worthwhile experience, I haven't enjoyed it that much and wouldn't do it again this way.
Some of my family and friends think I am whinging so I will start with the positives. Firstly, I am fitter and more tanned than before. Just for the moment all my geriatic aches and pains have abated. Also, I enjoyed my various encounters with people and in writing about them. I have enjoyed the "drug" of the traveler, the constant movement and in particular the arriving and departing. I have enjoyed seeing the country change slowly and mostly I have enjoyed the French people, the odd jaded hotel or railway official aside.
The French are fundamentally and extremely polite and helpful peoples. Yes, I know much of the manners are institution but this is a good start compared to some other cultures including our own. I like the way they help if they can with such things as directions (very useful in big cities) and that when they walk into a bar in rural areas they shake everyones hand including yours just because you are there. The simple "d'accord, à gauche c'est mieux" from a busy mechanic as I tried to traverse Limoges will stay in my memory. Of course this does not mean the French are all peaches and cream and thank God for that.
What I haven't enjoyed has been the increasing fatigue. That feeling of non-specific pain in the legs and the lack of appetite brought on by a hig level of exhaustion. I am writing about this now because I am already beginning to forget. The constant up and down and changes of gear from 3/6 or 7 to 1/1 and back again. I was careful about water deprivation but could see some signs of it. There were stretches of road where it seemed that every truck in Europe was passing and these are narrow roads. I remember the 25 km stretch into Périgueux as much for its flat profile and lack of traffic as for the beatiful scenery.
However, what I didn't like the most was the solitude. Talking to yourself only works to a limited extent.
Au contraire, I enjoyed greatly that freedom a bike gives you to move and sometimes it seems like glide through a city or town. I am not a great one for the visiting of "sites". I prefer a purpose to my tourism and this is what the biking does. My last ride from Gare Austerlitz to my hotel was along the Seine and north along Bd de Sebastopol and other busy roads at 6.00 pm. This was with a broken set of front brakes (see a following posting on travelling on trains with a bike). This was a memorable trip as much for the observations of the behaviour around me as for the fact that I made it unscathed.
I hope this is the right mix of whinging and hopefulness.
I have been reflecting on the bike trip with mixed feelings. Riding across hilly Limousin and Dordogne and the still hilly Loire Valley in not great weather took its toll. But already after one day relaxing in Paris I feel a lot more positive.
However, overall, whilst a worthwhile experience, I haven't enjoyed it that much and wouldn't do it again this way.
Some of my family and friends think I am whinging so I will start with the positives. Firstly, I am fitter and more tanned than before. Just for the moment all my geriatic aches and pains have abated. Also, I enjoyed my various encounters with people and in writing about them. I have enjoyed the "drug" of the traveler, the constant movement and in particular the arriving and departing. I have enjoyed seeing the country change slowly and mostly I have enjoyed the French people, the odd jaded hotel or railway official aside.
The French are fundamentally and extremely polite and helpful peoples. Yes, I know much of the manners are institution but this is a good start compared to some other cultures including our own. I like the way they help if they can with such things as directions (very useful in big cities) and that when they walk into a bar in rural areas they shake everyones hand including yours just because you are there. The simple "d'accord, à gauche c'est mieux" from a busy mechanic as I tried to traverse Limoges will stay in my memory. Of course this does not mean the French are all peaches and cream and thank God for that.
What I haven't enjoyed has been the increasing fatigue. That feeling of non-specific pain in the legs and the lack of appetite brought on by a hig level of exhaustion. I am writing about this now because I am already beginning to forget. The constant up and down and changes of gear from 3/6 or 7 to 1/1 and back again. I was careful about water deprivation but could see some signs of it. There were stretches of road where it seemed that every truck in Europe was passing and these are narrow roads. I remember the 25 km stretch into Périgueux as much for its flat profile and lack of traffic as for the beatiful scenery.
However, what I didn't like the most was the solitude. Talking to yourself only works to a limited extent.
Au contraire, I enjoyed greatly that freedom a bike gives you to move and sometimes it seems like glide through a city or town. I am not a great one for the visiting of "sites". I prefer a purpose to my tourism and this is what the biking does. My last ride from Gare Austerlitz to my hotel was along the Seine and north along Bd de Sebastopol and other busy roads at 6.00 pm. This was with a broken set of front brakes (see a following posting on travelling on trains with a bike). This was a memorable trip as much for the observations of the behaviour around me as for the fact that I made it unscathed.
I hope this is the right mix of whinging and hopefulness.
Je suis arrivée à Paris il y a un jour et je parterai demain
The trip is finally over and I have packed the bike. Doing some washing right now because they might be rejected by customs for carrying banned or infectious substances!
I have some more postings of the gap in travelling and reflection and photos.
I have some more postings of the gap in travelling and reflection and photos.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Je suis arrivée à St Yrieix
I have arrived at this halfway point to Périgueux feeling the effect of the hills. Still I can see the end in site. I had a beer in a bar and saw a little of the opening ceremony for the World Cup. The French TV is obsessed about it.
I can sense I am now in the south of France. the architecture is changing. This particularly applies to the churches. They are Romanesque and very old. Really get a sense of the Middle Ages here.
I have some postings of my experiences over the last few days but am too tired right now to do them.
I can sense I am now in the south of France. the architecture is changing. This particularly applies to the churches. They are Romanesque and very old. Really get a sense of the Middle Ages here.
I have some postings of my experiences over the last few days but am too tired right now to do them.
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