The trip is over and today is a work day. While the residual jet lag remains I will do a simple documentation of the cycling route. The distance ridden includes within cities and towns.
1 June, Tuesday - Nancy to Nevers by train and camped
2 June, Wednesday - Nevers to Moulins by bike (100km) and stayed at a hotel
3 June, Thursday - Moulins to Clermont-Ferrand and then to Nevers by train to a hotel
4 June, Friday - Nevers to Bourges by bike (81km) and camped
5 June, Saturday - Bourges to Le Chatre by bike (95km)and camped for two nights
6 June, Sunday - Le Chatre
7 June, Monday - Le Chatre to Gueret by bike (96km)and camped for three nights
8 June, Tuesday - Gueret (rain)
9 June, Wednesday - Gueret (rain)
10 June, Thursday - Gueret to Ambrazac by bike (70km) to hotel (rain commenced at midday)
11 June, Friday - Ambrazac to St Yrieix by bike (70km) to camp (very difficult ride)
12 June, Saturday - St Yriex to Perigueux by bike (70km) to camp
13 June, Sunday - Perigueux to Poitiers by train to hotel
14 June, Monday - Poitiers to Loches by bike (95km) to camp
15 June, Tuesday - Loches to Contres by bike (60km) to Chambre d'hote.
16 June, Wednesday - Contres to Chambord to Blois by bike (50km)
16 June, Wednesday - Blois to Paris by train and bike (10km) to hotel
17 June, Thursday - Paris
18/19/20 June, Fri/Sat/Sun - Paris to Melbourne
Total distance ridden by bike - 727km
Flat tyres - none
Other damage - brakes in fall on train from Blois to Paris
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Dave, le anglais qui voudrait oublier
I met Dave at the Gueret camping ground. The manager had let both of us know of the presence of another English speaking cyclist. I went over to his site and started to chat. Soon I knew the basics of his story as he mine. Dave was around 40 and came from about 100 km north of London, he had been in France cycling since January this year, he had "issues" at home and he loved listening to the cricket.
I was most impressed with the fact that he cycled through the winter. This year had been a particularly severe winter in France. Dave was a strong believer in fate and told me a story about escaping a major Atlantic storm that had killed about 50 people. This, he attributed to a chance encounter and warning from another Englishman. He was an advocate of "wild camping" and this is what he mainly did so even being in a municipal camp site was a rarity. He had another story about being caught in the Alps with snow falling and a bicycle that was unsafe to ride. Here he was saved by two samaritans in a van.
We got on well for a while and discussed sport and politics quite easily. But reasonably quickly we lost interest in each other. A common language and interest in sport weren't enough to sustain the relationship. We shared a meal cooked (really more warmed) on his little stove. Even here, my choice of cheese was a point of difference. Dave had very simple food tastes.
It probably wasn't helped by my suggestion that he go back to England to deal with his issues. These issues are not for detailing here but, as can be expected, related to both home and work. Dave seemed a gentle soul and it was clear he wasn't ready for whatever confrontations were related to returning. Dave would rather sit out the rain in his tent listening to the cricket on the radio.
After two days of solid rain, I finally got away from Gueret early on the third day. Dave was still in his tent listening to the radio when I left. He poked his head out of the tent and we shook hands wishing each other all the best.
I was most impressed with the fact that he cycled through the winter. This year had been a particularly severe winter in France. Dave was a strong believer in fate and told me a story about escaping a major Atlantic storm that had killed about 50 people. This, he attributed to a chance encounter and warning from another Englishman. He was an advocate of "wild camping" and this is what he mainly did so even being in a municipal camp site was a rarity. He had another story about being caught in the Alps with snow falling and a bicycle that was unsafe to ride. Here he was saved by two samaritans in a van.
We got on well for a while and discussed sport and politics quite easily. But reasonably quickly we lost interest in each other. A common language and interest in sport weren't enough to sustain the relationship. We shared a meal cooked (really more warmed) on his little stove. Even here, my choice of cheese was a point of difference. Dave had very simple food tastes.
It probably wasn't helped by my suggestion that he go back to England to deal with his issues. These issues are not for detailing here but, as can be expected, related to both home and work. Dave seemed a gentle soul and it was clear he wasn't ready for whatever confrontations were related to returning. Dave would rather sit out the rain in his tent listening to the cricket on the radio.
After two days of solid rain, I finally got away from Gueret early on the third day. Dave was still in his tent listening to the radio when I left. He poked his head out of the tent and we shook hands wishing each other all the best.
Friday, June 18, 2010
La cuisine en France
It seems obligatory to write about the food in France. I had some lovely food but I also had so not so great food. Interestingly this variation is not always price related.
This was not a foodie holiday so the best food I had was to a degree accidental. It also wasn't made easier by the fatigue driven lack of appetite.
Stopped by rain at a small town called Ambazac, just north of Limoges, I checked into the only hotel. That night for dinner I had the most fantastic lamb shanks. I mention this because lamb shanks with white sauce was a favourite of my Dad. However these lamb shanks were not the same over cooked version and I have never been fan of white sauce. Sorry Mum! Now my enthusiasm for lamb shanks is renewed.
Another time, after riding through driving rain for 16 km from La Roche-Posay (a very touristy town) to a village called Preuilly, I had a fantastic "pub" three course lunch again with lamb as the main course. I think this meal sustained me for the rest of the 95 km I rode that day to reach Loches.
In most larger tourist towns and cities, there are plenty of "formule" restaurants offering prepared food. In my limited experience, in these towns your need to pay at least 50€ for a really good meal. In contrast, in smaller towns, you can get great food prepared for you for between 10€ and 20€, especially for lunch. Dinner is usually more expensive.
As for haut cuisine, I am not the person to ask. Sorry, not much to say on this score.
This was not a foodie holiday so the best food I had was to a degree accidental. It also wasn't made easier by the fatigue driven lack of appetite.
Stopped by rain at a small town called Ambazac, just north of Limoges, I checked into the only hotel. That night for dinner I had the most fantastic lamb shanks. I mention this because lamb shanks with white sauce was a favourite of my Dad. However these lamb shanks were not the same over cooked version and I have never been fan of white sauce. Sorry Mum! Now my enthusiasm for lamb shanks is renewed.
Another time, after riding through driving rain for 16 km from La Roche-Posay (a very touristy town) to a village called Preuilly, I had a fantastic "pub" three course lunch again with lamb as the main course. I think this meal sustained me for the rest of the 95 km I rode that day to reach Loches.
In most larger tourist towns and cities, there are plenty of "formule" restaurants offering prepared food. In my limited experience, in these towns your need to pay at least 50€ for a really good meal. In contrast, in smaller towns, you can get great food prepared for you for between 10€ and 20€, especially for lunch. Dinner is usually more expensive.
As for haut cuisine, I am not the person to ask. Sorry, not much to say on this score.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
La Voyage par velo est fin et les Bleues est battu!
Yesterday I packed the bike and the French team were well beaten by Mexico. I share with the French people a sense of relief that it has all ended.
I have been reflecting on the bike trip with mixed feelings. Riding across hilly Limousin and Dordogne and the still hilly Loire Valley in not great weather took its toll. But already after one day relaxing in Paris I feel a lot more positive.
However, overall, whilst a worthwhile experience, I haven't enjoyed it that much and wouldn't do it again this way.
Some of my family and friends think I am whinging so I will start with the positives. Firstly, I am fitter and more tanned than before. Just for the moment all my geriatic aches and pains have abated. Also, I enjoyed my various encounters with people and in writing about them. I have enjoyed the "drug" of the traveler, the constant movement and in particular the arriving and departing. I have enjoyed seeing the country change slowly and mostly I have enjoyed the French people, the odd jaded hotel or railway official aside.
The French are fundamentally and extremely polite and helpful peoples. Yes, I know much of the manners are institution but this is a good start compared to some other cultures including our own. I like the way they help if they can with such things as directions (very useful in big cities) and that when they walk into a bar in rural areas they shake everyones hand including yours just because you are there. The simple "d'accord, à gauche c'est mieux" from a busy mechanic as I tried to traverse Limoges will stay in my memory. Of course this does not mean the French are all peaches and cream and thank God for that.
What I haven't enjoyed has been the increasing fatigue. That feeling of non-specific pain in the legs and the lack of appetite brought on by a hig level of exhaustion. I am writing about this now because I am already beginning to forget. The constant up and down and changes of gear from 3/6 or 7 to 1/1 and back again. I was careful about water deprivation but could see some signs of it. There were stretches of road where it seemed that every truck in Europe was passing and these are narrow roads. I remember the 25 km stretch into Périgueux as much for its flat profile and lack of traffic as for the beatiful scenery.
However, what I didn't like the most was the solitude. Talking to yourself only works to a limited extent.
Au contraire, I enjoyed greatly that freedom a bike gives you to move and sometimes it seems like glide through a city or town. I am not a great one for the visiting of "sites". I prefer a purpose to my tourism and this is what the biking does. My last ride from Gare Austerlitz to my hotel was along the Seine and north along Bd de Sebastopol and other busy roads at 6.00 pm. This was with a broken set of front brakes (see a following posting on travelling on trains with a bike). This was a memorable trip as much for the observations of the behaviour around me as for the fact that I made it unscathed.
I hope this is the right mix of whinging and hopefulness.
I have been reflecting on the bike trip with mixed feelings. Riding across hilly Limousin and Dordogne and the still hilly Loire Valley in not great weather took its toll. But already after one day relaxing in Paris I feel a lot more positive.
However, overall, whilst a worthwhile experience, I haven't enjoyed it that much and wouldn't do it again this way.
Some of my family and friends think I am whinging so I will start with the positives. Firstly, I am fitter and more tanned than before. Just for the moment all my geriatic aches and pains have abated. Also, I enjoyed my various encounters with people and in writing about them. I have enjoyed the "drug" of the traveler, the constant movement and in particular the arriving and departing. I have enjoyed seeing the country change slowly and mostly I have enjoyed the French people, the odd jaded hotel or railway official aside.
The French are fundamentally and extremely polite and helpful peoples. Yes, I know much of the manners are institution but this is a good start compared to some other cultures including our own. I like the way they help if they can with such things as directions (very useful in big cities) and that when they walk into a bar in rural areas they shake everyones hand including yours just because you are there. The simple "d'accord, à gauche c'est mieux" from a busy mechanic as I tried to traverse Limoges will stay in my memory. Of course this does not mean the French are all peaches and cream and thank God for that.
What I haven't enjoyed has been the increasing fatigue. That feeling of non-specific pain in the legs and the lack of appetite brought on by a hig level of exhaustion. I am writing about this now because I am already beginning to forget. The constant up and down and changes of gear from 3/6 or 7 to 1/1 and back again. I was careful about water deprivation but could see some signs of it. There were stretches of road where it seemed that every truck in Europe was passing and these are narrow roads. I remember the 25 km stretch into Périgueux as much for its flat profile and lack of traffic as for the beatiful scenery.
However, what I didn't like the most was the solitude. Talking to yourself only works to a limited extent.
Au contraire, I enjoyed greatly that freedom a bike gives you to move and sometimes it seems like glide through a city or town. I am not a great one for the visiting of "sites". I prefer a purpose to my tourism and this is what the biking does. My last ride from Gare Austerlitz to my hotel was along the Seine and north along Bd de Sebastopol and other busy roads at 6.00 pm. This was with a broken set of front brakes (see a following posting on travelling on trains with a bike). This was a memorable trip as much for the observations of the behaviour around me as for the fact that I made it unscathed.
I hope this is the right mix of whinging and hopefulness.
Je suis arrivée à Paris il y a un jour et je parterai demain
The trip is finally over and I have packed the bike. Doing some washing right now because they might be rejected by customs for carrying banned or infectious substances!
I have some more postings of the gap in travelling and reflection and photos.
I have some more postings of the gap in travelling and reflection and photos.
Friday, June 11, 2010
Je suis arrivée à St Yrieix
I have arrived at this halfway point to Périgueux feeling the effect of the hills. Still I can see the end in site. I had a beer in a bar and saw a little of the opening ceremony for the World Cup. The French TV is obsessed about it.
I can sense I am now in the south of France. the architecture is changing. This particularly applies to the churches. They are Romanesque and very old. Really get a sense of the Middle Ages here.
I have some postings of my experiences over the last few days but am too tired right now to do them.
I can sense I am now in the south of France. the architecture is changing. This particularly applies to the churches. They are Romanesque and very old. Really get a sense of the Middle Ages here.
I have some postings of my experiences over the last few days but am too tired right now to do them.
La Pluie, la pluie battente et plus pluie! Mais, maintenant le temp est mieux.
I am just passing though Limoges and because I was stuck in Guéret for three days progress has been very slow. However I hope to be in Périgueux by tomorrow and then I will take a train back to the Loire Valley and away from these hills. However I am enjoying the riding.
Bon Journéé
Bon Journéé
Monday, June 7, 2010
Les Irlandais a seulement un oeil!
Vraiment, c'est vrai!
Well perhaps a bit of an exaggeration. However this was my experience in staying two nights at the Nevers camping ground. In both cases it was the right eye that was dodgy.
The first guy was very friendly and we chatted for a long time about this and that. He was surprised that I could recognise his accent as he was from the north. However a around 30 he may not have known that in the late 60s we were feed a daily dose of the Rev Ian Paisley and Bernadette Devlin. He was heading south with his partner on a moterbike and seemed very organised.
The second guy was a more problematic character. He had a bike of sorts but had taken the train to Nevers. We talked although the conversation was limited. I asked him where he was going and was it for holiday. His reponse was "me father died two years ago". Knowing something of Irish society I understand the importance of fathers and how this might set one wandering. He then asked me which way was south. I referenced my answer to the setting sun and hope it would help. The next morning we met again and he asked where he could get some soup and for a bike shop that could repair his brakes. He also asked where south was. I gave some suggestions for the soup and the bike repair and referenced my answer on direction to the rising sun.
A Dutch pilgrim (Never is on the pilgrim path to Spain)who had also talked to him what would become of him. During his last trip south he had had his drink spiked in Rome and lost everything. We had no answer.
I left Nevers in what I thought was a westerly direction and thinking whether I should have shared my soap with the boy (maybe mid 30s)from just south of Dublin. However, the Dutch pilgrim hadn't either so I stopped feeling so bad.
Well perhaps a bit of an exaggeration. However this was my experience in staying two nights at the Nevers camping ground. In both cases it was the right eye that was dodgy.
The first guy was very friendly and we chatted for a long time about this and that. He was surprised that I could recognise his accent as he was from the north. However a around 30 he may not have known that in the late 60s we were feed a daily dose of the Rev Ian Paisley and Bernadette Devlin. He was heading south with his partner on a moterbike and seemed very organised.
The second guy was a more problematic character. He had a bike of sorts but had taken the train to Nevers. We talked although the conversation was limited. I asked him where he was going and was it for holiday. His reponse was "me father died two years ago". Knowing something of Irish society I understand the importance of fathers and how this might set one wandering. He then asked me which way was south. I referenced my answer to the setting sun and hope it would help. The next morning we met again and he asked where he could get some soup and for a bike shop that could repair his brakes. He also asked where south was. I gave some suggestions for the soup and the bike repair and referenced my answer on direction to the rising sun.
A Dutch pilgrim (Never is on the pilgrim path to Spain)who had also talked to him what would become of him. During his last trip south he had had his drink spiked in Rome and lost everything. We had no answer.
I left Nevers in what I thought was a westerly direction and thinking whether I should have shared my soap with the boy (maybe mid 30s)from just south of Dublin. However, the Dutch pilgrim hadn't either so I stopped feeling so bad.
Logement en France
From the grand apartments of the smerter arrondissements of Paris to decaying farm houses there is for some an exotic and romantic allure. However there is also a lot in common with what we know.
Firstly, there is¨Paris. Paris is expensive to rent or buy and out of the reach of many. Yet there a many unoccupied homes. The situation is similar in larger regional cities with house prices rising significantly over the last few years. The newspaper headline today says there is a shortfall of 900,000 homes.
Some of the regional cities are now, courtesy of the TGV within commuting distance of Paris. For example, Nancy? which is 300 km from Paris is now only 90 minutes away by TGV. A regional city is a much better place to live than the Paris banluie (suburbs skirting the city).
In the more rural areas, villages are dying and there are plenty of derelict farm houses. In one village I came through there is a plaque celebrating a two week stay by Jeanne D'Arc in 1414. It looks like nothing more exciting has happened there since. Paradodoxically on the edges of some villages there is something of building boom happening. There a little villas with land around going up close to larger towns and cities.
France's population is now growing rapidly due to both natural growth and immigration. Where the Maillets live (Heillecourt) is housing development in response to the babyboomer growth period of the 60s and 70s. These are good developments with a good mix of housing type and excellent social facilities. I am not so sure the current reponse to growth is as effective. Perhaps Denis can provide an authoritive comment as this is something that interests all of us.
Firstly, there is¨Paris. Paris is expensive to rent or buy and out of the reach of many. Yet there a many unoccupied homes. The situation is similar in larger regional cities with house prices rising significantly over the last few years. The newspaper headline today says there is a shortfall of 900,000 homes.
Some of the regional cities are now, courtesy of the TGV within commuting distance of Paris. For example, Nancy? which is 300 km from Paris is now only 90 minutes away by TGV. A regional city is a much better place to live than the Paris banluie (suburbs skirting the city).
In the more rural areas, villages are dying and there are plenty of derelict farm houses. In one village I came through there is a plaque celebrating a two week stay by Jeanne D'Arc in 1414. It looks like nothing more exciting has happened there since. Paradodoxically on the edges of some villages there is something of building boom happening. There a little villas with land around going up close to larger towns and cities.
France's population is now growing rapidly due to both natural growth and immigration. Where the Maillets live (Heillecourt) is housing development in response to the babyboomer growth period of the 60s and 70s. These are good developments with a good mix of housing type and excellent social facilities. I am not so sure the current reponse to growth is as effective. Perhaps Denis can provide an authoritive comment as this is something that interests all of us.
J'arrive a Guéret
Actually this is not strictly true. I am 10 km short of Guéret and stopped for a coffee and then because I have ridden well, a beer too. I noticed the bar had an internet site so I take this opportunity to do some postings
It is after noon so respectible for an Anglo-Celt to commence drinking although I have noticed some of the French start a little earlier.
The terrain is hiller now and I am seeing lots of white Limosin cows. This is strange given I am in Limosin! I have left the dreaded wheat, barley and canola. The paddocks a more petite in both the French and English meanings.
Heading for Perigeaux so expect something after these three posting in about two days.
Glad to know the Auditors report is about to hit the desk. The only other work thing I wonder about is whether Bill has worked out the difference between income and expenditure. Right now I am trying but France is quite expensive.
It is after noon so respectible for an Anglo-Celt to commence drinking although I have noticed some of the French start a little earlier.
The terrain is hiller now and I am seeing lots of white Limosin cows. This is strange given I am in Limosin! I have left the dreaded wheat, barley and canola. The paddocks a more petite in both the French and English meanings.
Heading for Perigeaux so expect something after these three posting in about two days.
Glad to know the Auditors report is about to hit the desk. The only other work thing I wonder about is whether Bill has worked out the difference between income and expenditure. Right now I am trying but France is quite expensive.
Saturday, June 5, 2010
La Voyage me fatigue plus
There are times when you wonder why you bother to travel and then it is explained!
After the disappointment of the mountains (sounds like Phil of the SBS Tour de France commentary) I was dtermined to get kilometers under me. From Nevers I rode to Bourges and stayed one night. Bourges is nice enough with yet another magnificent 11th Century cathedral but I had trouble finding a meal but did get a good one in the end.
At 7 am the next morning I set out with a heavy heart to ride across yet more rolling hils of wheat, barly and canola but no people. I stopped briefly at Chateauneuf, a hole of a place with yet another cathedral (another story). I took a coffee at a bar and they reluctantly refilled my water bottle.
In even lower spirits in increasing heat I set off on a "sprint" across more plains of wheat, barley and canola (could be in a green Wimmera). I arrived at Ligniéres yet one mere liveless French small town at around 11.00. I was about to continue on to my ultimate destination of Le Chatre when something made me have a wander leaving my bike against a wall.
I found a small square with a large covered area rather like a farm shed with massive colums and beams. On part of this area was a motley collection of tables and chairs, none set but with what most interested me, a menu board. "Si vous plait, je voudrais manger?" With an affirmative? I settled down to a simple but very nice omelette and salad with a Pichet of cider. It doesn't take much to revive a boys spirits and for me, this was it!
As I take my coffee and look at the building opposite with pink shutters, I am mentally ready for more wheat, barley and canola. The Force is returning! As I leave the French are arriving to take thier Saturday lunch to a more normal routine.
After the disappointment of the mountains (sounds like Phil of the SBS Tour de France commentary) I was dtermined to get kilometers under me. From Nevers I rode to Bourges and stayed one night. Bourges is nice enough with yet another magnificent 11th Century cathedral but I had trouble finding a meal but did get a good one in the end.
At 7 am the next morning I set out with a heavy heart to ride across yet more rolling hils of wheat, barly and canola but no people. I stopped briefly at Chateauneuf, a hole of a place with yet another cathedral (another story). I took a coffee at a bar and they reluctantly refilled my water bottle.
In even lower spirits in increasing heat I set off on a "sprint" across more plains of wheat, barley and canola (could be in a green Wimmera). I arrived at Ligniéres yet one mere liveless French small town at around 11.00. I was about to continue on to my ultimate destination of Le Chatre when something made me have a wander leaving my bike against a wall.
I found a small square with a large covered area rather like a farm shed with massive colums and beams. On part of this area was a motley collection of tables and chairs, none set but with what most interested me, a menu board. "Si vous plait, je voudrais manger?" With an affirmative? I settled down to a simple but very nice omelette and salad with a Pichet of cider. It doesn't take much to revive a boys spirits and for me, this was it!
As I take my coffee and look at the building opposite with pink shutters, I am mentally ready for more wheat, barley and canola. The Force is returning! As I leave the French are arriving to take thier Saturday lunch to a more normal routine.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
Je suis arrivée a Moulins
I rode up here this morning arriving at 12.00 noon. The 80 km was an easy ride. However with rain and conscious of not pushing too hard I decided to stay in a Hotel tonight.
Also, looking for the first time in detail at the maps I am not sure I have bitten off more than I can chew in terms of crossing the higher part of the Massif Central. I am taking the train from here up to Clermont-Ferrand and will see from there what is reasonable.
Also, looking for the first time in detail at the maps I am not sure I have bitten off more than I can chew in terms of crossing the higher part of the Massif Central. I am taking the train from here up to Clermont-Ferrand and will see from there what is reasonable.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
Les Français
Some English speakers like to malign the French. This probably done to mask their own insecurities.
I find the French to be a very warm people. I am mindful of their efforts at greeting. It is always personal,direct and with meaning -"bonjour" and "ca va" and farewell is "bon journée and "au revoir". Then there is the double cheek kiss. At first like most English speakers I had a bit of trouble with but now I am right into it. This is because I see it for what it is - a sign of acceptance and friendship. It is really an honour.
The French are now very diverse. Sarah is the daughter of a Northern French father and a Madagascar born mother of Indian (Ismaeli) origin. The wedding that followed ours at City Hall was Berber from the High Atlas Mountains - lots of drums and wailing.
Whoever Les Fraiçais are they are adsorbing the warm Latin feelings of this culture.
I find the French to be a very warm people. I am mindful of their efforts at greeting. It is always personal,direct and with meaning -"bonjour" and "ca va" and farewell is "bon journée and "au revoir". Then there is the double cheek kiss. At first like most English speakers I had a bit of trouble with but now I am right into it. This is because I see it for what it is - a sign of acceptance and friendship. It is really an honour.
The French are now very diverse. Sarah is the daughter of a Northern French father and a Madagascar born mother of Indian (Ismaeli) origin. The wedding that followed ours at City Hall was Berber from the High Atlas Mountains - lots of drums and wailing.
Whoever Les Fraiçais are they are adsorbing the warm Latin feelings of this culture.
Je suis parti Nancy
This morning early I rode the fully loaded bike tentatively from Maison Maillet to Gare Nancy. The train trip to Never, the start of the ride is 3.5 hours via Dijon. This is the Bourgogne region, a land of wine, mustard, wheat cows and sheep. Very green and very rich agriculturally. In Dijon the influence of the Alps is beginning to appear but now as the train has turned west, the buildings are reveting back to the typical architecture of Lorriane, Champagne and Ardenne.
I have mixed feelings about the ride. Whilst there is a lot of freedom, it is quite lonely and at times physically demanding. However I know that once I get into a routine, I will begin to enjoy it. Tonight I am camping in Nevers amongst all the Dutch camper vans by the Loire River.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Le Mariage de Sarah et Nicolas
Fortunely for this major event I have some photos. Unfortunately for everything else I forgot to bring the cable! So these photos will be posted after I come back;
Now for the wedding! Sarah and Nicolas were married in the Nancy City Hall which is a very impressive 18th Century building forming one side of the equally impressive St Stanislaus Square. The marriage was at 3.00 pm and was followed by a reception and a wedding dinner at Heillecourt which did not finish until after 3.00 am the following morning with music and dancing going continuously. The French like their wedding parties. The food was superb and Sarah and Nicolas and their families put a tremendous effort in setting everything up with decorations and table settings. I have photos of all this which I will post later.
That's enough from me now for some photos.
Now for the wedding! Sarah and Nicolas were married in the Nancy City Hall which is a very impressive 18th Century building forming one side of the equally impressive St Stanislaus Square. The marriage was at 3.00 pm and was followed by a reception and a wedding dinner at Heillecourt which did not finish until after 3.00 am the following morning with music and dancing going continuously. The French like their wedding parties. The food was superb and Sarah and Nicolas and their families put a tremendous effort in setting everything up with decorations and table settings. I have photos of all this which I will post later.
That's enough from me now for some photos.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
La Salle d'Attente
I arrived at Lille railway station early, in fact two hours early which then became five hours when I learnt that my train was cancelled. What to do when you have a heavy suitcase and no storage facility in this era of security? You go to the waiting room. Fortunately Lille station waiting room is clean and under steady use. People were coming and going and not of particular attention. But a wait of five hours made me seek distractions other than reading Le Monde and writing.
I began to notice a woman speaking almost continuously in muted tones to a man whose only response was also a muted "eh" of acknowledgement. There is nothing special about such an engagement except the duration. It went on for most of the time I was in the waiting room. The man appeared to be "of the cloth" judging from the gold edged book in his hand. He was extremely attentive to the woman's tale and her distress. Eventually after such a long period of listening he appeared to give his judgement. As they eventually left I could only speculate on the purpose and effectiveness of this consultation and on the patience of some.
My other longterm co-occupants of the waiting room were a vagrant man whose stench was as pervasive as it was overpowering and an old woman whose tirade to some expressionless travellers was as intense as it was incomprehensible to me and, I speculate, to them.
Such a long wait needed to be punctuated by a search for food and the toilet. In Gare du Lille the toilet was hard to find and privatised. At first I pretended to ignore, as an ignorant foreigner, the many signs for a toll for my brief and efficient male toiletry. However, as I went to leave, a formidable looking woman made such a strong blocking movement that surrender to this outrageous brigandry was my only option. After paying I left, thankful for my life but with some residual resentment over the need to pay for basic human needs.
The train to Le Tourquet sur la plage eventually arrived and I had the pretty French landscape to entertain and distract me from Le Monde and writing.
Right now I bet you are hoping I can improve on this drivel. However, waiting is one aspect of travel so be prepared for such boring stories:
I began to notice a woman speaking almost continuously in muted tones to a man whose only response was also a muted "eh" of acknowledgement. There is nothing special about such an engagement except the duration. It went on for most of the time I was in the waiting room. The man appeared to be "of the cloth" judging from the gold edged book in his hand. He was extremely attentive to the woman's tale and her distress. Eventually after such a long period of listening he appeared to give his judgement. As they eventually left I could only speculate on the purpose and effectiveness of this consultation and on the patience of some.
My other longterm co-occupants of the waiting room were a vagrant man whose stench was as pervasive as it was overpowering and an old woman whose tirade to some expressionless travellers was as intense as it was incomprehensible to me and, I speculate, to them.
Such a long wait needed to be punctuated by a search for food and the toilet. In Gare du Lille the toilet was hard to find and privatised. At first I pretended to ignore, as an ignorant foreigner, the many signs for a toll for my brief and efficient male toiletry. However, as I went to leave, a formidable looking woman made such a strong blocking movement that surrender to this outrageous brigandry was my only option. After paying I left, thankful for my life but with some residual resentment over the need to pay for basic human needs.
The train to Le Tourquet sur la plage eventually arrived and I had the pretty French landscape to entertain and distract me from Le Monde and writing.
Right now I bet you are hoping I can improve on this drivel. However, waiting is one aspect of travel so be prepared for such boring stories:
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Le Café en France
D'autres préférent prendre le café à la mode italienne. Mais j'ai pris le café français. Mais c'est important où vous prenez votre café. Si vous preniez le café à le table vous paieriez deux fois le prix du bar. Aussi, comme en Australie, cela depend où vous prenez votre cafe.
Je prefère le café francais parce que j'aime son goût. Ce n'est pas plus fort et la quantité n'est pas plus petite que le café italien ou moins fort et plus grand que le cafe americain ou allemand. Aussi vous devez prendre le cafe noir, ou, comme le français disent, "un cafe simple" ou "un cafe".
Pour le petit-dejeûner, vous pouvez prendre le café avec du lait, mais ce n'est pas classique.
Pour cette partie, j'utilise l'expression de la comparaison et le verbe au temps présent, passé compose, conditionnel et subjunctif.
S'il vous plait corrigez ce que j'ai écrit.
C'est tout
Je prefère le café francais parce que j'aime son goût. Ce n'est pas plus fort et la quantité n'est pas plus petite que le café italien ou moins fort et plus grand que le cafe americain ou allemand. Aussi vous devez prendre le cafe noir, ou, comme le français disent, "un cafe simple" ou "un cafe".
Pour le petit-dejeûner, vous pouvez prendre le café avec du lait, mais ce n'est pas classique.
Pour cette partie, j'utilise l'expression de la comparaison et le verbe au temps présent, passé compose, conditionnel et subjunctif.
S'il vous plait corrigez ce que j'ai écrit.
C'est tout
Lille - La Belle du Nord - Peut-Etre!
Lille, an old industrial city is, I think, the fourth largest city in France. It has a very pretty town centre full of beautiful Flemish architecture that has been recently restored. However it is no Brugge or even a Cambrai. Beyond the town centre is still depressed and as ugly as any English mill town. It has a touch of Germinal still.
Denis, always one for a good deal, booked me into a hotel to the south of the city. It is here that I can see a more representative Lille. That is, a place seeking rejuvenation. Denis is right, the hotel is probably more modern than any in the centre and is what the travelling French might choose if they have a car. However, even for me after two trips on the small metro, I discovered I can walk to the city centre in about 30 minutes and this is what I have been doing - walking, walking and walking.
Lille has a very impressive Fine Arts Museum. The building itself is very ipressive even by French standards and has a very good collection of 16th, 17th and 18th Century painting. Not my favourites but really worth a look. My problem was that I was dead beat before I got there so I "did it" in a shuffle and thinking all the while how nice it would be to have a shower and a rest! What a pleb!
Today I got a personal tour of the Pasteur Institute Museum. I rang because it was closedand that is what the sign said you could do. Any they very nicely delivered on their promise. The guide and I in broken French and English got along very well. I learnt that as well a Pasteurizing milk, Pasteur and his collegues Calmette and Guerin developed snake anti-venim, vaccinations for typhoid, diptheria, TB and the rabbit myxo (sorry can't spell the rest). They even developed activated carbon for water treatment. The thing is they were all chemists and as a result the medical profession for a time derided them for a time. Isn't it the way. My guide told me it took them 28 years to develop the TB vaccine through over 200 test tube proecesses using potatoes as food for the bacteria. Such marvellous persistance. Also appropriate in this centre of the French fry - Flemish France. The institute is very active now and there are about 30 associated Pasteur Institutes around the world with what seems like a big focus on TB which unfortunately is an emerging disease. One we thought we had eradicated.
Lille is the birthplace of Charles DeGaulle. He belonged to a wealthy industrial faMily. The house is a National monument in the Vielle Ville. Later in lifehe moved to somewhere more picturesque like Franch-Compt or Burgundy.
There is also a very good example of a Vauban fort. These are scattered all over the north, built by Louis XIV (The Sun King I think). I walked right round this perfectly preserved example. It has all sorts of well used walking and running trails and even nature areas and a small zoo. The centre is still a military base used by the French equivalent of the SAS.
Maintenant, j'écrirerai un peu français, parce que mon français est tre mauvais. Je dois exercer! Lille est un belle ville que il s'agit renouveler. Si le gens duLille etaint recycler,la ville serait encore devenir La Belle du Nord. Alors! Mais franchement, Lille a un mauvais ordorat. Je pense que les egout cassent.
Demain, je vais à Le Torquet, encore à Nancy pour le mariage.
Denis, always one for a good deal, booked me into a hotel to the south of the city. It is here that I can see a more representative Lille. That is, a place seeking rejuvenation. Denis is right, the hotel is probably more modern than any in the centre and is what the travelling French might choose if they have a car. However, even for me after two trips on the small metro, I discovered I can walk to the city centre in about 30 minutes and this is what I have been doing - walking, walking and walking.
Lille has a very impressive Fine Arts Museum. The building itself is very ipressive even by French standards and has a very good collection of 16th, 17th and 18th Century painting. Not my favourites but really worth a look. My problem was that I was dead beat before I got there so I "did it" in a shuffle and thinking all the while how nice it would be to have a shower and a rest! What a pleb!
Today I got a personal tour of the Pasteur Institute Museum. I rang because it was closedand that is what the sign said you could do. Any they very nicely delivered on their promise. The guide and I in broken French and English got along very well. I learnt that as well a Pasteurizing milk, Pasteur and his collegues Calmette and Guerin developed snake anti-venim, vaccinations for typhoid, diptheria, TB and the rabbit myxo (sorry can't spell the rest). They even developed activated carbon for water treatment. The thing is they were all chemists and as a result the medical profession for a time derided them for a time. Isn't it the way. My guide told me it took them 28 years to develop the TB vaccine through over 200 test tube proecesses using potatoes as food for the bacteria. Such marvellous persistance. Also appropriate in this centre of the French fry - Flemish France. The institute is very active now and there are about 30 associated Pasteur Institutes around the world with what seems like a big focus on TB which unfortunately is an emerging disease. One we thought we had eradicated.
Lille is the birthplace of Charles DeGaulle. He belonged to a wealthy industrial faMily. The house is a National monument in the Vielle Ville. Later in lifehe moved to somewhere more picturesque like Franch-Compt or Burgundy.
There is also a very good example of a Vauban fort. These are scattered all over the north, built by Louis XIV (The Sun King I think). I walked right round this perfectly preserved example. It has all sorts of well used walking and running trails and even nature areas and a small zoo. The centre is still a military base used by the French equivalent of the SAS.
Maintenant, j'écrirerai un peu français, parce que mon français est tre mauvais. Je dois exercer! Lille est un belle ville que il s'agit renouveler. Si le gens duLille etaint recycler,la ville serait encore devenir La Belle du Nord. Alors! Mais franchement, Lille a un mauvais ordorat. Je pense que les egout cassent.
Demain, je vais à Le Torquet, encore à Nancy pour le mariage.
Thursday, May 20, 2010
La classe est fin
Our last class is this morning. In two weeks I believe my French has improved so in spite of my initial impression of a daunting task, progress has occurred. Both my comprehensions (listening and reading) are better and even my near mute speaking has improved a little. C'est vrai je suis heureux avec ma classe.
In the two weeks there has been insufficient time for our group to really bond but in these last few days some semblence of association has emerged. My group, who have gathered for four hours each morning, are Michael from Ireland; Ji Min and Hae Jin from Korea, Joanne and Pam from the US, Angela from Austria and Darja from Latvia. Various others, particularly the Japanese seem to come and go. A special mention of Darja who speaks four languages and now she is our star in French. She came here directly from Toyko from a language school there. Whilst you would think there was not enough time, she has a boyfriend here. Peut etre c'est par-ce que elle se ressemble Maria Sharapova! However she is my favourite because she told me she admires my persistance! Some might call it pigheadedness but not Darja so there you go.
Language learning is quite an industry in the Tower of Babel that is Europe. There are some like Darja who are what might be called language professionals and others like Anibal from Spain who is and aeronautical engineer and has a French girlfriend and wants to move to France for work and love. The largest groups are younger students from Germany, other germanic language countries and the US who are forfilling their language course requirements.
The afternoon has been Atelier (workshop)which has been of mixed intensity, interest and usefulness. Drama has been my low point. In one workshop I met Eric, a Gay psychariast from the US. Eric reakons that the best way to practice speaking is to go shopping! It makes sense.
After class today I will have lunch with Claudio who is from what appears to be everywhere and who has studied at Bond University. Then I will do a walking tour of the Latin Quarter. Tomorrow it is Musee D'Orsay and les Printemps for the wedding tie and chocolates for Jacqueline and Marine my very friendly and warm hosts. It has been great to stay with such a family.
On Sunday I leave for Lille. I should say I will miss my daily walk from Opera up Rue Des Italiens past Le Cafe Grand Capuchins but I won't. As with all travellers, the horison beckons.
PHOTOS ARE COMING
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
La Vie à Paris
Jardin du Luxembourge on a sunny Sunday in early summer
Not much to add to the last posting. On Saturday I had a busy weekend visiting the Pantheon and the Jardin du Luxembourg and then later visiting Edith's friend Frances, who lives outside Paris. Frances and I visited the home of Emile Zola, which is near her home. It was good to get a better idea of who he was through this experience. Thank you Frances! Whilst I have only read two of his books (and only as translations)he made a big impression on me when I was a young. I am thinking particularly of Germinal. Zola's grave(tombe)is at the Pantheon so it was a bit of a Zola day. I have it on my list to read more of his books.
On Sunday I walked through the Bois de Boulogne including the Bagatelle. This is a huge nature reserve which is undergoing natural restoration such there is real bush and I think i saw a wild fowl. I learnt today that at night it is a bit of a hangout for transvestites but what I saw wasnt that type of bird. C'est vrai!
On Monday night I met Denis and Stephane for dinner. I didn't know it before but Denis doesn't have a good sense of direction and is too impetuous. A bad combination in Paris but we eventually found an Indian restaurant. C'est bon. Stephane is very patient with his father. I also discovered that all Frenchman are not as casual as Denis. Perhaps it is just a matter of engineers being engineers. Au contraire, Stephane est tres chic! I am off to Printemp to get a tie to ensure that Sarah lets me into the wedding.
The French language course is, to use the title of the other Zola book I have read, is a bit of a debarcle. Actually it isn't but it is tres tres dur! I think that my brain is saying "this is French, I refuse to listen!". It is a real battle between my will and my body.
I have been commuting to school by Metro and bus. Each has its advantages but after a while both are just like Melbourne, boring! What is different for the locals is the price and area of appartments. Stephane has only been in Paris a short time and he lives with his girlfriend in 2.9 square metres or in our units about three squares. I suspect if Melbourne property continues to go up, it will be like this for us too. Only if you have lived in Paris a long time is it possible to live reasonably. Stephane says that he will move away from Paris after a few years and probably when he begins to think about a family. A pity how a city and an economy can destroy itself such that the only ones who can live reasonably in Paris are the old and the rich. You need the young,the brightest and the energetic to maintain the life of a city. Making property horribly expensive is not the way to do this.
C'est tout. Je dois retourner a chez Jacqueline pour mon diner et plus tard révise la travail du jour.
Au revoir
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Il y a six jour j'ai arrivée à Paris
Dimanche a Jardin du Luxembourge
Dining out with the Finnish Ladies - Helena and Eva
Vendredi, 14 Mai 2010 - Whose idea was it to go to an intensive French course? Who would be silly enough to sit through four hours not understanding more than about 20% of what is being said and living in fear of being asked a question? Yes, you all know the answer to these questions. Picking up the basic theme of what teacher is saying and responding in whatever basic way are the challenges. And no, you can't ask the teacher to repeat something in English; you can't even ask a question in English. Of course I shouldn't leave out the joy of learning about the subjunctive and the objective-possessive.
I am in a class of around 10, all of whom are more than 30 years younger. This is in an environment where youth and its associated adsorption capacity is supreme.
I have deliberately delayed making this posting because I wanted to avoid sounding too negative. As well as negativity I have managed sarcasm too! Honestly, it is a struggle but just hearing so much French is, I am sure, doing me good. Let's see what next week brings.
I am planning a busy weekend of visiting places in Paris and hope to catch up with some friends. More on this in the next posting.
Oh, some want details on the food. Well, this week I have had the worst duck of all time (one of those bad spontaneous decisions) and one of the nicest steaks. I have also had some convivial meals at my home stay and out with some people I have met at the school (yes there are some oldies here). Did I mention the creme brulée. C'est Magnifique!
C'est tout et au revoir
Mon Famille et Mes Amies
Dining out with the Finnish Ladies - Helena and EvaVendredi, 14 Mai 2010 - Whose idea was it to go to an intensive French course? Who would be silly enough to sit through four hours not understanding more than about 20% of what is being said and living in fear of being asked a question? Yes, you all know the answer to these questions. Picking up the basic theme of what teacher is saying and responding in whatever basic way are the challenges. And no, you can't ask the teacher to repeat something in English; you can't even ask a question in English. Of course I shouldn't leave out the joy of learning about the subjunctive and the objective-possessive.
I am in a class of around 10, all of whom are more than 30 years younger. This is in an environment where youth and its associated adsorption capacity is supreme.
I have deliberately delayed making this posting because I wanted to avoid sounding too negative. As well as negativity I have managed sarcasm too! Honestly, it is a struggle but just hearing so much French is, I am sure, doing me good. Let's see what next week brings.
I am planning a busy weekend of visiting places in Paris and hope to catch up with some friends. More on this in the next posting.
Oh, some want details on the food. Well, this week I have had the worst duck of all time (one of those bad spontaneous decisions) and one of the nicest steaks. I have also had some convivial meals at my home stay and out with some people I have met at the school (yes there are some oldies here). Did I mention the creme brulée. C'est Magnifique!
C'est tout et au revoir
Mon Famille et Mes Amies
Friday, May 7, 2010
May 2010 - The Journey Begins/Le Voyage Commence
This is my new journey. I leave Melbourne tomorrow, Saturday 8 May 2010 at 2250 and fly via an impossible route (who invented frequent flyers?) and eventually get to Paris on Sunday evening. I then begin a two week intensive French course including homestay where there is more French! Hopefully this will bring me across a threshold that has eluded me in two years of studying this beautiful but frustrating language.
After the two weeks I will head north by train to Lille. As I understand, Lille is a rejuvenated old industrial town with a strong Flemish architectural style. After two days in Lille I will again take a train to Le Touquet, which is south of Calais on the Channel Coast. I meet Denis there and go to Nancy/Heillecourt by car with him. I will be attending the wedding of Sarah and Nicholas. Sarah is the daughter of Denis and Farida. Denis is my long time friend from Stanford days.
After the wedding, I will leave Heillecourt (pronounced "ei-coor") and the Maillets with my newly purchased bike. I will catch the train to Nevers at the foothills of the Massif Centrale. The bike ride begins: firstly south and up to Vichy, then Clermont-Ferrand then west into The Dordogne and north to Limousin. If I have time I will cycle all the way north across the Loire Valley and on to the fringes of Paris. I hope this little diary can be entertaining and interesting for you and me.
Oh, for those like me, computer illiterates, the map below is a linked Google Map which you can move around and zoom in and out and go to a satellite image. I had thought to edit it along the way but maybe I will and maybe I won't. Ah, the whims of the traveller and the joy of an unconstrained world.
View The 2010 Trip in a larger map
After the two weeks I will head north by train to Lille. As I understand, Lille is a rejuvenated old industrial town with a strong Flemish architectural style. After two days in Lille I will again take a train to Le Touquet, which is south of Calais on the Channel Coast. I meet Denis there and go to Nancy/Heillecourt by car with him. I will be attending the wedding of Sarah and Nicholas. Sarah is the daughter of Denis and Farida. Denis is my long time friend from Stanford days.
After the wedding, I will leave Heillecourt (pronounced "ei-coor") and the Maillets with my newly purchased bike. I will catch the train to Nevers at the foothills of the Massif Centrale. The bike ride begins: firstly south and up to Vichy, then Clermont-Ferrand then west into The Dordogne and north to Limousin. If I have time I will cycle all the way north across the Loire Valley and on to the fringes of Paris. I hope this little diary can be entertaining and interesting for you and me.
Oh, for those like me, computer illiterates, the map below is a linked Google Map which you can move around and zoom in and out and go to a satellite image. I had thought to edit it along the way but maybe I will and maybe I won't. Ah, the whims of the traveller and the joy of an unconstrained world.
View The 2010 Trip in a larger map
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)